Pulejo Mountain Guide

   

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

    I am a native New Englander who has always been passionate about skiing, which naturally led me toward a life in the mountains and a myriad of exploratory pursuits therein. I pursued a degree in Wilderness Leadership from Prescott College in Arizona in 1994. This comprehensive learning and mentorship opportunity provided a solid and diverse foundation to begin my career as a professional mountain guide. After working for a decade as a climbing instructor and guide (rock, ski & alpine), I immersed myself in certification training and assessment with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). I spent five years training with some of the leading guides in our country, having my personal guiding practices extensively evaluated and finely honed by peers while on courses and during rigorous examination. In March 2008, I completed my full guide certification becoming an internationally licensed IFMGA/UIAGM guide, the highest achievement for mountain guides worldwide. While ski mountaineering remains my greatest passion, I am also certified in rock, ice and alpine climbing disciplines. It’s an honor to become one of a handful of guides in New England to receive this recognition.

Since moving to Vermont in 1996, I have helped to create curriculum and instruct skill-focused leadership development programs for a number of local colleges and universities, focusing on technical climbing, skiing and avalanche awareness. These experiences complement and inform my guiding style by providing me with a broader understanding of experiential education practice and development for aspiring wilderness leaders. 

I believe solid wilderness travel skills are crucial to our success in the mountaineering realm. Since 1990 many of my days have been filled with all sorts of wilderness travel from river and sea kayaking to backpacking for up to 30 days at a time in the field. This time has allowed me to develop my navigation, personal systems, mountain sense and leadership. My mountain interests have lead me to extensive rock climbing throughout the U.S., Europe and Canada, alpine climbing in the Alps, Andes, Alaskan Range, Canadian Rockies and North Cascades; skiing in the Wrangell/St. Elias Ranges of AK, Chic Choc’s of Quebec, Rockies of Idaho and Colorado, Sierras, New England, French, Swiss and Italian Alps and Norway; high altitude expeditions to Alaska, Mexico, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia; ice climbing in Canadian Rockies, New England and the alps.

I value the experiences and path I’ve taken as a lifetime professional mountain guide. Having worked as a mountain guide since 1994, I've come to understand my work more as a lifestyle than a career. This realization sustains my passion for working in the mountains and keeps my relationship with the diversity of clients I work with fresh and exciting. The other gift my life as a guide and educator provides is time to pursue my grand passion in life...my family. Being primarily a stay at home father for much of the year, I have learned a great deal from my son Stokely and my daughters Harper and Frances. I have been fortunate to be able to spend so much time with my wife, Kimberly and our children. We have agreed that this time in our children’s development is crucial...to have us each play an integral role. I have never been a traditionalist. Working 9 to 5 has not been part of my world. Being a mountain guide allows me to continue in this vein by allowing time at home with my family for much of the calendar year, and, with the support of my wife and other family, time to travel with clients to my “office” in the hills. 

 

Certificates and professional development:
AMGA Rock Instructor Course, N. Conway, NH 2005
AMGA Rock Guides Course, Red Rocks, NV 2006
AMGA Alpine Guides Course, Alaska 2003
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guides Course, Canada 2005
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Course, La Grave, France 2007
AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Red Rocks, NV 2006
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, N. Cascades, WA 2007
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide, Chamonix, France 2008
IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Mountain Guide, Chamonix 2008
CAA Certified Level I Avalanche Training, Canada 1993
AIARE Certified Level III Avalanche Training, Utah 2007 
WFR 5 years Professional Ski Patrol Experience

 

Related Work Experience:
Guide and co-owner of Peak Expeditions, a Vermont based climbing instruction and guiding company leading international and domestic trips. 1997 – 2005

Adjunct Faculty in Outdoor education teaching college credit based courses in the areas of: ice and rock climbing, backcountry skiing and avalanche awareness, winter expeditions and backpacking. Johnson State College 1999 – Present, Greenfield Community College 2003- 2006, Prescott College 2005 – 2006

Contracted guide for rock and ice instruction, international high altitude expeditions and backcountry skiing and avalanche awareness. University of Vermont 1999 – 2017

Contracted ski guide for Sun Valley Trekking, an Idaho based mountain hut system for backcountry skiing adventures. 2001 - Present

 

Testimonials:
"Mark is an extremely competent and dynamic guide. The extent of his knowledge for systems is impressive and allows him to adapt to challenging situations that present themselves. His proficiency in the mountains ensures that clients will feel safe while still pushing themselves to achieve predetermined goals. Most importantly Mark has a profound respect for the mountains and understands that judgment can never be overshadowed by blind ambition or ego. He once said to me, "you never bag a peak, but rather the mountain decides whether or not it will be climbed." This has stuck with me and will always be the view that I take. I have shared a rope with Mark many times and intend to many more. Matt Tosi

 

“Mark guided me on my first alpine climbs last winter, and I recently returned from a climbing trip to Peru with him. Mark is a compassionate and seasoned guide who handles with great knowledge not only the rope, but an understanding of the cultures and regions around the areas where he climbs. Mark has a great talent for providing the necessary physical and emotional support for his clients and I feel extremely fortunate to have been guided up my first big mountains with Mark!” Phillip Ortego

 

"I`ve climbed with many leaders throughout my 11 years on both rock and ice. I choose Mark Puleio more then any other. The reason is simple; Mark walks the walk, never needing to flaunt it. Mark is extremely knowledgeable at all levels of climbing. Unlike other guides, Mark never takes himself too seriously, but he takes climbing and safety very seriously." Eric Schwartz

​

 

"Mark guided me successfully to the summit of Mont Blanc and prior to this a smaller alpine climb. Mark is the 5th guide I have experienced and is by far the best. Mark's approach is to provide outstanding levels of safe protection expertly done in a way that enables you to get on and enjoy your expedition confident in the knowledge that you are in good hands. Mark is a really great individual to spend time with on the mountains. He is both interesting and interested. Mark also took the time to teach me knew skills enabling me to get even more enjoyment from the time we spent together. The outcome of all this was an experience in which I felt we were a team rather than guide and client. I have banked my time with Mark as happy memories and over the years intend to add many more with this exceptional individual. I whole heartedly recommend him to you." Dom Irvine

​

 

Alpine Experience:
Mountains
20,320' Denali, Alaska West Buttress 
19,900’ Cotopaxi, Ecuador Standard
18,980’ Nev. Pisco, Peru SW Ridge, 3 times
17,618’ Pequeno Alpamayo, Bolivia WSW Ridge
19,975’ Huayna Potosi, Bolivia Normal 
17,690’ Charquini, Bolivia West Glacier
18,750’ Vallunaraju, Peru SW Ridge, 4 times
18,262’ Ishinka, Peru Traverse, 3 times
19,970’ Tocllaraju, Peru Standard
18,024’ Urus, Peru Standard
19,762’ Artesonraju, Peru South face
17,908’ Yanapaqcha, Peru SW Face, 2 times
17,470’ Maparaju, Peru SW Face
20,998’ Chopicalci, Peru SW ridge
17,780’ Huapi, Peru SW face to ridge
18,517’ Pico de Orizaba, Mexico Jampa 
4810m  Mt Blanc Gouter and Tos Motets Routes

3967m  Eiger Mittellegi ridge traverse to South ridge descent

4478m  Matterhorn/Cevino, Italian and Hornli ridges and full traverse 

4634m  Dufourspitze on Monta Rosa, SE Italian ridge

3841m  Monte Viso East ridge

3192m  Aiguille du Peigne Voie Normale

3673m  Aig. du Plan traverse from Big. du Midi

3542m  Aig. du Tour, East face and NE ridge

3520m  Petite Fourche, Air du Tour and Trient plateau

4001m  Aig. Du Rochefort, ridge traverse to summit

4013m  Dente del Gigante, Via Normale

3512m  Petite Aig. Verte, NW ridge

2834m  Aig. du Crochues, traverse

3535m  Aig. Marbrees, traverse

2674m  Perrons de Vallorcine, traverse 
4248m  Mt Blanc du Tacul, normal
3842m  Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur on the North face
3792m  La Tour Rond North face, SW Ridge
3534m  Aiguille de Toule, N and NW faces

3468m  Pyramide du Tacul, East ridge
3600m  Aig. d'Entreves, traverse
3613m  Point Lachenal, traverse

4017m  Weissmies, SE ridge to WNW face traverses

4010m  Lagginhorn, WSW and S ridges

4327m  Nadelhorn, NE ridge

4206m  Alphubel, from Taschhutte

4223m  Castor, WNW Flank

4092m  Pollux, West Flank

4164m  Breithorn, traverses

4215m  Piramide Vincent, NW flank and Punta Victoria SE ridge

4341m  Ludwigshöhe  

4320m  Parrospitze 

4554m  Signalkuppe, W flank and the Traverse of the 4000ers

4562m  Zumsteinspitze, SE ridge 

4158m  Jungfrau, SE ridge

4107m  Monch, SE ridge

4061m  Grand Paradiso, West and NW Flank routes

9,330’   Crescent Towers, Buggs. BC. Traverse W-E

9,250’   Hound’s Tooth, Buggs. BC. NW Face

9,029’   Castle Mt., Rockies, AB. Eisenhower Tower

9,029’   Castle Mt., Rockies, AB. Brewers Buttress

10,342’ Mt. Aberdeen, AB. North Face 

11,453’ Mt. Athabasca, AB Silverhorn 

6,288’   Mt. Washington, NH. Huntingtons gullies and Lions Head

10,781’ Mt Baker, Wa. North Ridge 

8,815’   Mt. Forbidden, Wa. NW face to N. Ridge 

9,127’   Mt. Shuksan, Wa. Fischer Chimneys, SE to NE Ridge 

9,415’   Mt. Stewart, Wa. West ridge

 

Skiing:
Wrangell Saint Elias Wilderness, Baldwin and Jefferies glaciers confluence, AK:
Peak 9970’  East Face 45 degrees/2,700’   
Glaciated Peak 9978’  South Face 45-50/1,500’        
Glaciated  Peak 9978’  North Shoulder  40-45/1,900’        
Glaciated  Peak 10,140’   North=20 Ridge 40-45/1,700’ 
Glaciated   Peak 9560’  East Face  50-45/2,000’        
Glaciated   Peak 9172’  Northeast Face  45/1,200’      
Non Glaciated   Peak 9580’  South   35-30/2,000’        
Glaciated Peak 8265’  Northeast Face  45/1,200’       

 

La Grave, La Meije, France Ski Descents:
Trifides 0, 1, 2, The Freaux, Banana, Patu, Pan de  Ratou (50 plus degrees), Chirouze Right, La Voute,  40-45 degrees/100-600 meters technical glaciated routes most involving rope work 
Couloir Davin in the Cusset glacier valley coulair proper 40-45 degrees/900 meters, tour was 14 K round trip with 1700 meter elevation gain, glaciated
Tour in the Vallon du Fontenil to Peak 2986 was 10 K round trip with 1400 meters elevation gain, non glaciated 30 – 35 degrees 
Tour in the Vallon du Roche Noire to Peak 3116 was 10 K round trip with 1100 meters elevation gain, non glaciated 30 –35 degrees 

  
Chamonix and Val d' Aosta Ski Descents:
Tour in Aguille Rouge Col De Beugeant 
Col de Crouches to Col de Berard to Village of Le Beut 
Valle Blanche to Col Maudit area to Col de Marbier to Glacier Noir to Mer de Glace 
Col du Passon to Le Tour
Col du Chardoney superior to Col du Frentna to Petetit Forche summit down Tet Blanch to Trient hut 
Trient hut to Aguille du Tour summit to Col du tour to Le tour 
Col Du Crouches to Col du to col de key hole to Le Beut
Petit Enviers, Grand Enviers, Vrey Valley Blanch to Mer de Glace
Cosmiques Couloir

Toule Glacier left, center, right descents

Marbree Ski descent

Col du Entreves 

Canale Della Passerella

Canale del Tedesco

Canale classico e Spalla

Youla Canale della Rete 

​

Alps Ski Tours:

Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, Verbier version 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain

Berner Oberland Tour, Switzerland, 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain

Ortler/Cevedale Ski Tour, Italy, 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain

​

Norway Ski Tours:

Many peaks toured and skied in the areas of Sogndal, Stryn, Rosendale, Jostedale, Jotunheimen, Tromso, Senja, Lyngen, Uloya and Svalvard. 

 

Smokeys, Boulder, Pioneer and Sawtooth Mts. ID: 

200 plus days of one to seven day ski guiding trips while co instructing Level 1 Avalanche Awareness Course with a three day field curriculum (AAA) during the seasons of 2002 - 2017. Day tours of up to ten miles with 5,000’ elevation gain, slopes 25-45 degrees in and around the areas of: Mt. Galena Pass, Kelly Peak, Durrance, Tournac Peak, Fox Peak, Baldy Mt.,  Anderson Creek, Baker Creek, Red Fish Valley, Bench Lakes, Mt Heyburn, Fishook Valley, Mt Willams, Hortsmans Peak

 

Chic Choc Mts. Gaspesei, Quebec:

14 days of day ski guiding with day tours up to 15k with 300-800 meter elevation gains  25 – 40 degrees  Non Glaciated 

 

Kootney Mts., BC:
Many different tours in and around Red Mt. and Whitewater ski hills and the Hucklebury hut and Barret Lake bowls areas  25-45/500’ – 2,000’ Non Glaciated 

Columbia Icefields, AB  Tours including Snow Dome Southeast Shoulder and Athabasca Glacier descent   25-35/1,500’ Glaciated 
Glacier National Park (Rogers Pass area) Tours including Cheops  and Bruins Peaks lines 30-40/1,000’ – 2,000’                   

San Fransico Peaks, AZ , Many different lines in the Inner Basin 30-40/1,000’- 2,000’  

Donner Pass, Tioga Pass, CA  1994 
Mt. Conness  Southeast   30-40/1,000’   
North Peak  South and North 40-30/1,000’   
Tours out of the Peter Grub hut area with lines 30-35/500’-1000’   
Kaibab Plateau/Grand Canyon Ski Traverse, 14 day ski traverse with turns near the North rim AZ  1994 
Tuckermans Ravine, Great Gulf, Gulf of Slides, Huntington Ravine Mt. Washington, NH  1997-05 
     

​

Ice Climbing:
3 Frankenstein’s, NH Standard 
4+   Frankenstein’s, NH Dracula 
4+   Smugglers Notch, VT vRagna Rock v
4 Smugglers Notch, VT Norton/Gibney 
4 Smugglers Notch, VT Blind Fate    
3 - 4   Lake Willougby, VT Tablets    
5 Lake Willougby, VT Glass Menagerie 
5 Lake Willougby, VT Promenade

5 Cogne, IT Tuborg

 

Rock Climbing:

5.7 T    Cannon Cliff, NH  Whitney Gilman    

5.8 T    Cannon Cliff, NH  Moby Grape    

5.8 T    Cannon Cliff, NH  British are Coming 

5.9 T    Cannon Cliff, NH  Vertigo 

5.9 T    Cathedral Ledge, NH  Retaliation   

5.10T   Cathedral Ledge, NH Book of Solemnity 

5.9 T    Cathedral Ledge, NH  Recom.-Beast 

5.10 T  Cathedral Ledge, NH  The Deidre 

5.10 T  Cathedral Ledge, NH  Nut Cracker   

5.9+    Cathedral Ledge, NH  Rapid Transit 

5.10 M Cathedral Ledge, NH  Windfall 

5.10 M Cathedral Ledge, NH  Cold Day - Tranquility 

5.10 T  Whitehorse ledge, NH  Seventh Seal 

5.10 T  Whitehorse ledge, NH  Atlantis 

5.9 M   Whitehorse ledge, NH  Hotter Than Hell 

5.8 T    Whitehorse ledge, NH  Inferno 

5.9 M   Whitehorse ledge, NH  Children’s Crusade 

5.10 T  Poke o Moonshine, NY  Fastest Gun 

5.8 T    Poke o Moonshine, NY  Gamesmanship   

5.9 T    Poke o Moonshine, NY  Great Dihedral 

5.9+ T  Spiders Web, NY Esthesia   

5.9+ T  Spiders Web, NY Slim Pickins   

5.9+ T  Spiders Web, NY  On the Loose   

5.9+ M Smugglers Notch, VT  Better Livin Through Chemistry 

5.10 T  Bolton Valley, VT   Rose Crack 

5.9 T    Red Rocks, NV Community Pillar   

5.8 T    Red Rocks, NV  There and Back Again   

5.9 T    Red Rocks, NV  Varnishing Point   

5.9 M   Red Rocks, NV Refried Beans 

5.10 M Red Rocks, NV  Yellow Brick Rd.   

5.10 T  Red Rocks, NV  Triassic Sands   

5.8 T    Red Rocks, NV  Frogland   

5.10 M  Red Rocks, NV   Prince of Darkness   

5.10 T  Red Rocks, NV  Wholesome Fullback   

5.10 T  Red Rocks, NV  Left Out   

5.9 T V Red Rocks, NV  Epinephrine 

5.7 T IV Red Rocks, NV  Solar Slab 

5.9 T IV Red Rocks, NV Hot Fudge Thursday   

5.9 T IV Red Rocks, NV  Dark Shadows   

5.9T IV  Red Rocks, NV  20  Black Orpheus   

5.10T IV Red Rocks, NV Clod Tower   

5.8 M IV Red Rocks, NV  Crimson Chrysalis 

5.8 T IV Mt. Yamnuska, AB   Directisma   

5.8 T IV Mt. Yamnuska, AB  Forbidden Corner (winter ascent) 

5.10 T   Cathedral Mt., Zion, UT  Iron Messiah

5.10 M  Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, Fr Voie Rébuffat-Baquet

5.11 M  Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, Fr La Contamine 

5.11 M  Le Brevent, Chamonix, FR La Fin de Babylone

5.10 M  Le Brevent, Chamonix, FR Poeme a Lou

5.10 M  Aiguille Le Pouce, Chamonix, FR Voie des Dalles

5.8   M  Aiguille de la Perseverance, Chamonix, FR Arete South Integrale

5.8   M  Pyramide du Tacul, Chamonix, FR East Ridge

5.9 S    Corma di Machaby, Valle D' Aosta, IT Diretta Al Banano

​

​

​

​